Meet the Culinary Portal in the Heart of the Karatau
Far from the smoky trails of usual tourist spots, just 400 km out, there’s a tiny gem in Ust Kamenogorsk called the “Gateway to Katon” that serves up more than just food.
Why It’s a Must‑Stop
- A menu that’d make a nomad proud – think kutis stews, Uzbek dumplings, and a secret sauce no travel guide knows about.
- Stories carved into the walls – old postcards, tribal tales, and a wall mural that says “Welcome to Katon” in three languages.
- Travel hacks hand‑passed after you finish a bite (route maps, local customs, and the best time to sunrise over the park).
Visitor Vibes
One wanderer swore the place hit “just the right mix of warmth and mystery.” Others joked that it’s the place to “burn meals and not your memory.”
Bottom Line
So if you’re heading to the lonely Katon Karagay, pull over at this culinary crossroads – your taste buds and next‑stop plans will thank you.
Katon Karagay: The Hidden Gem of the Altay Mountains
Picture a place where Kazakhstan, Russia, and China swap stories under a canopy of green valleys and towering glaciers. Sounds like a fairytale? That’s what Katon Karagay feels like, and it’s the greenest, most tranquil national park in all of Kazakhstan.
The Legendary “Gate of Katon”
- My first trip? A 400‑km detour that turned my curiosity into an adventure.
- The gate isn’t a monument—it’s a restaurant called Kurt & Wine (or just the “gate to Katon”).
- Why the nickname? Because tourists think it’s as famous for its menu as for its scenic backdrop.
Where to Start
Head to Ust Kamenogorsk (also known as Oskemen) – the nearest city with an airport. From there you’ll hop on a 6‑ to 8‑hour drive that feels like a slow walk into paradise. Most folks stop for the night in the city, re‑charge, then head straight to the base camp to kick off the adventure.
Fun Fact
Did you know the restaurant sits on the edge of the valley, offering views that rival any Instagram filter? It’s a place where food, scenery, and a dash of wanderlust collide.
A cultural and historic introduction to Katon Karagay
Step into a Kazakh Kaleidoscope
Walking into the place feels like stepping straight into a living museum, but with a whole lot of laid‑back charm.
What’s on the walls?
- Yurt fragments hanging like moon pies, instantly evoking nomadic flair.
- Old chests that once stashed khachkas and wool, now proudly showcase drinks or a stray newspaper.
- Woven belts – those once‑used saddles’ girths – now double as curtain tie‑backs, splashing color onto every room.
Modern meets traditional
Imagine a gallery where contemporary canvases thirstily display Kazakh motifs while a rustic yurt patch feels like a quirky coaster for your coffee.
Does it steal the thunder?
It’s undeniably eye‑catching, but the fusion of old and new isn’t all that brand‑new in Kazakhstan. Think of it like a popular recipe: tasty, familiar, but not exactly surprising.
The elusive “gate” mystery
There’s a subtle nod to a “gate” somewhere, but we still haven’t cracked what that means. Maybe it’s the secret to a truly unforgettable dining experience… or just a playful puzzle for curious patrons.

Meet Mukhtar Toybazarov – Historian, Mountaineer, and the Unlikely Owner of Our Fateful “Room”
Picture this: we walk into what locals call the “Room.” Most of the space is dominated by a gigantic table that feels like it was left half‑filled by a misguided artist – odd lines, cryptic inscriptions, and a whole lot of empty chair space. It’s the sort of spot that might have been meant for a grand banquet, but ends up looking like a placeholder for a thousand missed opportunities.
Enter Mukhtar Toybazarov
Just as we’re lamenting the table’s desolation, Mukhtar steps in, a self‑proclaimed historian and mountaineer. He looks as if he’s ready to conquer a mountain, but his real conquest is this lively little nook.
What He Says (and Why It Matters)
- “I know what they call us.” – He’s already aware that customers think of him more as a guide than a chef.
- “I sometimes joke that we’re a tourist information centre, not a restaurant.” – Indicates that the room’s primary purpose is to feed people with knowledge, not just food.
- “We probably get a lot of praise, but it’s all about the shock of the Eastern Kazakh adventure.” – Highlights the importance of setting the right expectations for travelers.
- “We’ve tried our best to advise our guests about the region’s wonders and anticipate what they’ll experience on their journey.” – Shows his dedication, whether they’re between pastries or planning a hike.
So, while the table may not be the pinnacle of your culinary journey, Mukhtar’s narration turns the whole visit into a historical trek. In the end, the “Room” isn’t just a place to eat – it’s a front landing pad for the vast, rugged adventures that lie ahead in Eastern Kazakhstan.

Explore the Epic Story of the Katon Karagay Table
The Table That Maps a Whole Region
Imagine a table that’s not just furniture but actually a map of a rugged mountain range. That’s exactly what the Katon Karagay Table offers.
The Real‑World Legend Behind the Design
Bojan Brkic recalls how Mukhtar started telling us the tale.
- “We spent four months puzzling over what to build,” Mukhtar says.
- Then we worked two months to bring the vision to life.
- Vertical cuts on the surface? They’re river paths.
- Each line is a waterway, and the whole board maps the mighty Katon Karagay mountains.
The Awakening of Melted Glaciers
The narrative kicks off with glaciers that melt and feed rivers. It’s all about how mountain water shapes life below.
People & Treasures from the Past
From the very beginning, the story dives into the folks who once called the mountains home. Archaeologists even uncovered burial mounds dating back to the 4th–8th centuries BC.
- These ancient graves hold rich artifacts, including gold‑adorned garments.
- Even today, those treasures hint at the region’s storied past.
So the next time you see a table that doubles as a map, remember how a blend of mountain geology, local legends, and history stitched together a masterpiece you can actually sit on.

Welcome to the Cozy Kazakh Kitchen
Picture this: you walk into a place where every wall is a page in the storybook of Kazakhstan, painted in bright colors and brimming with tales of the steppe, the mountains, and the people who have called this land home for centuries.
Bojan Brkic: The Myth‑Busting Foodie
- Fact‑checking superstition: “Those Katon folks weren’t really nomads,” Bojan leans in, shaking his head. “The climate there’s just too mild, the water too plentiful, and there’s enough green to keep them glued to one spot all year round.”
- Breathing life into history: His stories feel like sipping tea beside a campfire—warm, honest, and a little rebellious.
Mukthar’s River Riddles
“You think Kazakhstan has no sea?” Mukthar says, grinning. “Try a short trip to Ust Kamenogorsk, hop in a boat, and you’ll actually drift all the way to the Arctic Ocean.”
- The Irtysh flows rivers of glaciers from Mongolia’s Katun, rippling through Russian springs.
- They merge in Hanty Mansysk, then take a grand tour into the ocean—old French maps even called that water “the Tatar Ocean.”
What the Restaurant Offers Beyond Food
Besides a mouth‑watering menu, the spot doubles as a travel hub. Here’s what you’ll find:
- Where to stay – From rustic yurts to cozy inns.
- Must‑see sights – The rolling steppe, crystal lakes, and historic villages.
- Road advice – Some streets are dust‑baked “tractor roads” that need sturdy wheels.
- Car hire tips – Where to snag reliable vehicles that can handle the rough terrain.
Local Treats & Contacts
Score a jar of famed Katon honey, and you’ll also get the necessary numbers and names:
- Honey shop – Pick up the sweetest stash.
- Contact info – A list of phone numbers and key folks in the town.
Owner’s Friendly Approach
It’s not just a TV‑set drama—this restaurant’s owner genuinely spends time with guests, even stepping away to mingle with other tourists. Every visitor is warmly briefed, ensuring that the experience feels less like a visit and more like a genuine cultural exchange.
Sum it up
Stroll in, taste history, and let the walls tell you a thousand stories. Whether you’re after a delicious meal, a ride through the steppe, or a touch of Kazakh folklore, this place is your passport to a memorable journey. Enjoy!
Food is still at the heart of the restaurant
Bringing Kazakh Kitchens to the City Scene
Just When You Think It’s All About the Dish
Even with a treasure trove of stats and prep material, the heart of this spot is still the food. They’ve got a big, blank wall galon (the “map table” that’s now finally full) and they’re mixing classic ingredients with a sleek, modern vibe—okay, that’s fancy talk, but basically it means traditional meets trendy.
The “Beshparmak” Bottleneck
Here’s the kicker: foreign visitors flock to taste the so‑called “Kazakh dishes.” But those recipes were originally made for family dinners, not for a restaurant setting. Picture this— “beshparmak”, a hefty, shallow bowl of meat that’s so big it feels like a neighborhood’s worth of beef.
Mukhtar – the kitchen captain – says, “We can’t just drop a head or any animal guts in front of people. That would be a total culinary horror.” The message: the dish needs a makeover.
A Modern Twist on Homemade Flavor
- Save the soul of the dish while making it skippable for the modern table.
- Invent new presentations that keep the taste intact but suit what’s on the bar shelves.
- Introduce quirky, unexpected sides—like pear & yogurt combos—without losing the heritage.
Take this: a pear-based side that’s drenched in a creamy kurt—that’s the hard, dehydrated yogurt that’s all the rage across Central Asia. Trust us, you’ll never guess you’re eating a dessert‑like side with a savory twist, because the palate decides everything.
Closing Thoughts
In the end, it’s all about width—how wide the flavors spread from the butchery kitchen to the modern diners. They’re taking the essence of home cooking and giving it a fresh, almost playful passport. And if it turns out to be tasty, who are we to argue? What’s next? Any idea for too‑much cheese on dumplings? Stay tuned—we’ll have the answer.

A Tasty Fusion Adventure
Picture this: a humble, time‑old recipe gets a fresh splash of modern flavors. As Bojan Brkic puts it, the kitchen becomes a mad scientist’s lab, where “we grind it, add some liquid and blow air into it” and voilà—mousse that pairs like a dream with everything from pine‑sweet pears to juicy strawberries, and even a piece of meat. “It keeps the classic kick, but with a twist,” he chuckles.
Whoever Dreamed of New‑Age Baursaks?
- Centuries‑old doughnuts, the beloved baursaks, were sliced in half in a way I’d never’ve seen before.
- They were dipped in creamy milk, then artfully topped with a local twist of “caviar” and fragrant herbs.
- Result? A bite that feels like a crunchy, sweet hug — the kind of treat that makes you feel like a kid at a dessert fair, but grown‑up.
From Rough to Ready: The Meat Edition
Our host gave us a sneak‑peek into culinary archaeology. Lamb chops were marinated, then roasted for a marathon of 11 hours—they came out silky‑soft, practically melting between your teeth. Meanwhile, horse meat was smoked on the fly, yet it still held that tenderness we’d expect from lamb. A real culinary coming‑of‑age story!
Hot Bread: The Homemade Hearth Delight
And then, the pièce de résistance. A fresh loaf, fried to a perfect golden crust in the kazan—the traditional oven that feels like an embrace of the very earth itself. Our host’s hands, calloused from years of kneading dough, tear the bread into bite‑size pieces so everyone gets a share of that freshly‑baked love.
“My grandmother and my mother used to bake bread like this,” the host shares. “We just pulled it from the special oven so you can taste it hot and fresh. It’s our custom for the host to give the bread to everyone straight from his own hands,” he adds with a wistful smile.
Bottom Line
It’s food that respects its roots while taking a bold leap into the future—all the while making you feel like you’re part of a secret family reunion. If you ever get the chance to taste this blend of tradition and whim, don’t be shy—go ahead, dig in!

Bread & Bombshells: Katon’s Slice of Future
When you think of a classic meal, a loaf of bread is practically the living-room TV of the kitchen. —Bojan Brkic ‑ but there’s more to our story than just carbs.
Setting the Stage
We left our last stop feeling pretty savvy, armed with the latest travel intel for the long haul ahead. Yet something was looming over the local eatery like a bad weather warning—its survival could be at stake as the area pushes out new tourist routes.
The Big Ticket: Katon’s Upgrade
To make Katon a real walk‑and‑talk destination—especially for folks trying to avoid a marathon from Ust Kamenogorsk—the local gov’s drooling over a brand‑new international airport. Next year, the plan is to have the runway humming, meaning future travelers can skip the leg‑long trip and fly straight into the “gate” of adventure.
Why It’s a Game‑Changer
- Shorter flights plus smoother arrivals.
- More ticks for tourist buses, so you can park in a hot tub of options.
- Each visitor gets a quick splash of local flavor, plus any side dishes you fancy.
In a nutshell: Katon’s evolving from a sleepy village into a buzzing hub, serving up bread and buzz in equal measure. Stay tuned for the flight plans, and you might even get that mouth‑watering loaf at the airport buffet!









Chelsea Lauren/Shutterstock
Image Press Agency/NurPhoto/Shutterstock
MEGA
Shutterstock
Manuele Mangiarotti/ipa-agency/Shutterstock
MEGA
Matt Baron/Shutterstock
Anthony Harvey/Shutterstock
Matt Baron/Shutterstock
Mark Von Holden/Invision/AP/Shutterstock
Rob Latour/Shutterstock
Piers Allardyce/Shutterstock
Suzanne Cordeiro/Shutterstock